Real, Traceable, Certified: What to Know Before You Buy Lab Diamonds
Before you buy lab diamonds, understand their origins, certification, and the importance of solid gold settings to ensure a beautiful, ethical choice.
The origin of a diamond, not so long ago, was hardly the subject of a chat at the jeweller-counter. Today it is frequently the initial question. Couples making an engagement ring, and anyone who buys the first jewellery of the fines, are more and more curious of where a stone was found, how it was cut and what evidence accompanies it. Lab-grown diamonds provide answers to these questions, better than most would, provided you know what to look at.
A real diamond, with a different origin
A synthetic diamond is not a fake. It is chemically and physically identical to that which comes out of the earth: pure crystallised carbon and is equally hard and possesses the same ability to manipulate light. The difference is the location of the crystal, which is in a controlled environment that replicates conditions that are found deep underground and not in the earth itself.
The source is practically beneficial. Raising a diamond results in reduced carbon emissions as compared to mining an individual, no ground water pollution and minimal or no mineral or land waste is left. There are also cases of growers using renewable or recycled energy and stones could be supplied by a transparent supplier instead of a long chain of intermediaries.
Do not confuse diamonds with simulants
Buyers most likely make the most frequent mistake as they confuse lab-grown diamonds with simulants. Cubic zirconia, moissanite, white sapphire and white topaz may all appear to be a diamond initially but none of them are diamonds. They vary in structure, toughness and their ability to bounce light back and the variations become visible after a number of years of day to day usage. When an item described in a general way is not clear whether the diamond is a simulant or a lab-grown one, then inquire.
Read the certificate first
An independent grading report is what turns a beautiful stone into a verifiable one. GIA, IGI and AGS are the three laboratories whose reports carry real weight, and IGI is especially established for lab-grown stones and widely accepted across the Middle East. Specialist jewellers working with lab diamonds now treat certification as standard: Fyne Jewellery, the Middle East’s first lab-grown diamond jewellery brand, ships every engagement ring with an IGI certificate.
The 4Cs (cut, colour, clarity and carat) are graded in the report and this is applicable to lab-grown stones as it is with the mined stones. The one that must come first is cut, as it determines the way in which the light passes through the diamond and goes to the eye. GIA rates cut between the range of Excellent to Poor whereas IGI rates are within the range of Ideal and Poor. A stone that is cut thin will often be a brighter appearance than a larger stone that was cut without care.
The setting matters as much as the stone
An engagement ring is a certified diamond, it should have a setting that can stand the test of time. Instead of plating or vermeil, solid gold can retain its colour, be polished, and resized throughout the years, and retain its inherent worth as a material. Fine jewellery is a reasonable standard eighteen-karat gold: dense with colour, strong enough to be worn on a daily basis and non-irritating to sensitive skin.
One might also question the way a piece is made. Made-to-order jewellery is created to order, instead of being fished out of a stockpile, minimizing waste and often permitting minor modifications to fit, finish and proportion prior to completion.
Questions worth asking any jeweller
Before you commit, a few questions will tell you a great deal about who you are buying from:
- Is the stone certified, and by which laboratory?
- Is the setting solid gold, and of what karat, or is it plated?
- Is the piece made to order or taken from stock?
- What does aftercare cover, from cleaning and resizing to loose stones?
Clear, specific answers are a good sign. Vague ones are worth noting, whatever the stone.
A considered choice
Wearing an artificial diamond is no longer a concessions or a declaration; it is a simply a decision. Begin with the certificate, insist on solid gold and what happens after the purchase. Do so and you will have a diamond which you not only know but also love.
